For the last few days, I've been meaning to curl up with some cookbooks to get some inspiration, or to put a new spin on an old standard. I haven't had a chance to spread the books out over the living room table, and frankly, I was beginning to feel like I was slacking off. But completely out of nowhere, not a cookbook in sight, I just plain wondered what would happen if I tried to "candy" a mango.
I sliced up some mango, tossed it in superfine sugar, and put it in a low 250 degree oven. I was hoping to draw out a lot of the moisture for some chewy, sugared mango slices. But after a long walk, I checked my experiment and it just wasn't dehydrating at the rate I wanted. I had hoped the mango would behave like oven-roasted cherry tomatoes, which dry out relatively quickly and leave you with some intense tomato flavor, similar to sun-dried tomatoes. Since my mango was so juicy, this method wasn't going to work. So I cranked it up to 400 degrees.
After about 18 minutes I smelled something gorgeous...caramelization. I was out of my chair like a shot, since caramelization can go from a rich, dark nuttiness to just plain burnt in seconds flat.
My mango slices were still very juicy, but had wonderfully chewy-looking golden edges and speckles. I tried one. Good, but intense. It needed a mellow partner. I mixed some Greek yogurt and a smidge of sour cream (and quit worrying so much about sour cream...it only has about 20 calories in a tablespoon) and put some of my browned mango on top. THAT was it!
The mango was so sweet and the carmelized parts reminded me of the top of a creme brulee. And of course, "creme" was the luxurious base of this confection. Lots of vitamin C and less than 200 calories per serving at my count. I christened it: "Mock Creme Brulee Au Tropique". Sounds good, doesn't it?? This would be really nice with a little mint as an ending to a light meal on a hot summer evening.
I thought I had broken brand new culinary ground. In my zeal to see what else I could pair my carmelized mango with, I started unearthing more ideas. But in my research, I saw that Chef Eric Ripert evidently had a similar "what-if-I-caramelize-mango" moment a few years back and he pairs his caramelized mango with vanilla ice cream. Pfff!
OK, fine, Eric. I guess this means I don't get to bust down the doors to Le Bernardin like a victorious conqueror the next time I'm in NYC. But whether I make it or Eric makes it, carmelized mango is a flavor-packed confection, and a fresh change of pace.
Thursday, May 6, 2010
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sounds darned good. i'm pretty sure that you are still, at least, the midwestern caramelized mango champ.
ReplyDeletewhy do you mock the creme brulee?
ReplyDeleteyour mango genius sounds quite yummy. i'm quite sure that you are, at least, the midwestern carmelized mango champ.